Make-ahead gravy

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium-high heat. Cook the chicken wings, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 10–12 minutes.

Add the onion, carrot and celery and cook, stirring and turning the wings often, until everything in the pan is deeply browned, about 14–16 minutes. Add the herbs and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Pour in the wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape o any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil and cook until the wine is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add the stock and return to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by a third, about 35 – 40 minutes.

Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl. (You should have about 4 cups. If you don’t, add enough stock or water to get you there.) Discard the solids. Keep the stock warm while you make the roux.

Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Whisk in the  our and cook, whisking continually, until the roux is golden brown and looks smooth and shiny, about 4 minutes.

Whisking continually, gradually ladle the stock into the roux, making sure to incorporate after each addition before adding more. Simmer, whisking often, until the gravy is thickened and reduced to about 3 cups (it should coat the back of a spoon), about 8–10 minutes. Stir in the Worcester sauce, taste and season.

Cook’s note: Gravy can be made five days ahead. Cool, then cover and chill. Reheat over a low heat.