Being Jane Nshuti: an African Culinary Enigma
We shine a spotlight on Jane Nshuti, a plant-based African food educator and the founder of Tamu by Jane. From her love of food to her passion for African ingredients and education, we learn all about the things that makes Jane tick.
In the realm of the culinary arts, Rwandan-born Jane Nshuti emerges as a luminary. Jane, who is a chef, an advocate for African gastronomy and an educator, shoulders these roles with remarkable prowess. Her overarching goal is centred around acquainting those who engage her work with the rich tapestry of flavours inherent in all African cuisine. She is significantly influenced by her familial ties, particularly her mother's culinary expertise, which is steeped in the use of African ingredients that are renowned for their restorative attributes, and has absorbed a profound intertwining of food and holistic well-being with great care and grace.
The rich legacy of ancestral culinary wisdom shapes Jane’s culinary ethos, underpinning a profound connection between nourishment, vitality and creativity. However, in this deep-rooted appreciation lies a fervent ambition to champion African ingredients and propel African gastronomy onto the world stage. Through a systematic approach of acquainting global audiences with African produce and its exceptional qualities, Jane strives to unveil the inherent beauty and meaning of these special ingredients.
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A pivotal aspect of Jane’s culinary narrative revolves around enlightening her audience on the diverse use of these ingredients, fostering a widespread understanding of her mixed culinary heritage, which is informed by her extensive travels across the continent. Jane’s delicious creations are not only as dishes to be enjoyed, but are a conduit for education, empowering others to embrace these ingredients within their own culinary endeavours. She has, in many ways, given rise to a culinary renaissance that intertwines flavour with nourishing elements of learning.
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“Life was good growing up. I had my parents and my siblings, and food was always in abundance.” When Jane turned nine, however, life would take an unexpected and unkind turn. The Rwandan genocide occurred in 1994 during the Rwandan Civil War. Around this time, Jane’s mother passed away while they were fleeing Kigali during the war. She fell ill and died on the journey. Tragically, her father succumbed to an epidemic that swept through Rwandans who entered the DRC, claiming thousands of lives, including his. He died two days after they arrived. “After his death, my siblings and I decided to leave Goma, at the border of Rwanda and the DRC, and move to a refugee camp. While my older siblings went out to find work, my job was to stay behind and cook. It was then, in those humble beginnings, that life nudged me towards my love for food. And I've been cooking ever since,” she smiles.
“I came to South Africa in 1999 with my uncle and his family. Before that, we lived in other African countries, including Kenya and Uganda. As a young girl, food had always chosen me. I should have been playing with other children, but I only spoke Kinyarwanda and couldn't communicate in English or any local languages. So, I found myself staying in the kitchen, and that became my safe place. Food became my refuge, a comforting constant in my life.”
Until later in her life, it had never occurred to Jane to consider or explore food as a possible career choice. Food wasn't seen as a natural career path to pursue, so she enrolled in the University of Western Cape to study public administration. “I found myself unhappy with my choices. In 2019, I decided to follow my heart and start pursuing food as a career. It has been the best decision I've ever made!”
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In 2021 Jane registered her company, Tamu by Jane, launching it as a people-oriented brand, primarily to encourage people to explore the delicious flavours Africa has at its disposal. She hosted African feasts, interactive cooking classes showcasing African food at markets through live demonstrations, and ran a food pod at Makers Landing at the V&A Waterfront. This year, Jane is excited to share her future endeavours. “We're planning new and exciting ways to bring African ingredients to the world. We can't wait to share everything we have in store with you when the time is right.”
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Jane’s collaboration with Bertha Spaces started in 2022 when she was approached by its directors to contribute a culinary offering within the space. They shared their vision of creating the Activist Café in Cape Town, aligning with Bertha's commitment to food justice. The core of this initiative is to serve fresh, garden-to-table food at affordable prices for everyone using the space. Inspired by their mission, Jane was thrilled to be part of bringing it to life. “It's been a wonderful journey working together to make nutritious and delicious food accessible to all.”
Currently, Jane works alone, employing an ad hoc kitchen staff when special events call for it. She also regularly collaborates with other talented food experts in the industry. She has recently taken a pause from work to welcome and look after her son, who is now eight months old. “This time has been incredibly precious. It's given me space to dream and explore new ideas. I'm now working on something fresh and exciting and I can’t wait to share it when the time comes.”
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“My favourite thing about my work is the joy of discovering new African ingredients. I love transforming my kitchen into a sort of science lab, experimenting with these flavours and seeing how they come together in the final dish. It always fills me with excitement.” Jane identifies one of her biggest challenges with her chosen path is feeling as if there is no blueprint or starting point. She describes this sentiment as African chefs seemingly starting from scratch. “We haven’t seen African ingredients represented the way we want to represent them, and it feels like we are paving the way.” Although she laments that the task can feel insurmountable and burdensome at times. “It does get lonely sometimes.” In these challenging and isolating hours, Jane draws emotional support from her husband and children. “My son reminds me every day of why I’m passionate about my work. My daughter is my biggest cheerleader and taste tester, always ready to lend a hand with her little brother when I'm busy. And my husband is my rock, encouraging me every step of the way, especially when things get tough. They are my pillars of strength and inspiration.”
Jane takes inspiration for her recipes directly from the ingredients themselves, exploring the unfettered versatility of each one. “It's like a puzzle for me – how can I use this ingredient in multiple ways to keep it exciting and ensure I don't feel like I'm eating the same thing repeatedly?” She carefully considers each ingredient in its entirety, pondering ways of using every part to minimise waste. This process keeps Jane engaged, allowing room for innovation.
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In the words of Sierra Leone–born, UK-based cookbook author Maria Bradford, “Africa is the final frontier of food.” For Jane, working as a chef in Africa in the contemporary landscape means existing in an exciting era where the scope of opportunities is progressively leveling out. African chefs and creators now possess the capability and power to stand confidently shoulder to shoulder with their creative counterparts from every corner of the globe. “In today's global village, our heritage and culture can be shared with the world at the click of a button. This incredible opportunity comes with a significant responsibility for us as Africans. We must be genuine ambassadors and passionate advocates for our food culture. That's why I've taken it upon myself to showcase the rich flavors of Rwandan and African cuisine.” It's a responsibility Jane embraces with aplomb.
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Jane draws inspiration from her contemporaries in the African culinary landscape, admiring and looking upon the work of Mokgadi Itsweng and Livhuwani Ravele. “I take a lot of inspiration from them; Mokgadi boldly champions African ingredients and shares their incredible flavours with the world. And then there's Livhuwani, who, as a food photographer and recipe developer, skillfully captures the essence of African ingredients. Her work deeply resonates with me and encourages me to celebrate and advocate for African cuisine with passion.” Jane recently collaborated with Livhuwani on the photography of one of her most recently developed recipes, amaranth pudding.
Find the recipe for Jane's mango amaranth pudding here.
At the 2024 Food Indaba, an annual symposium of talks and events focusing on the local food system, Jane will present an eight-course tasting menu, where guests will vicariously experience her migration as a refugee from Rwanda through the DRC, Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Mozambique and finally, South Africa, narrating her and her family’s chronicles of making home of wherever they found themselves. Dishes to look forward to include coco yam gnocchi with moringa pesto, and a deep-fried tofu-stuffed dumpling served with gari, as well as a fonio malva pudding.
“It will be a storytelling evening, featuring delicious, plant-based, gluten-free dishes that highlight the flavours and experiences from Rwanda to South Africa. I can't wait to share this special journey with everyone!”
Book your tickets for what promises to be a deliciously inspiring evening here.
Learn more about Food Indaba and all the events and speakers here.
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