TASTE flavour of the month: Banana
Plot twist: The humble banana has spread its wings and been catapulted into the fine-dining stratosphere, where it has been beguiling (and converting) diners with its honeyed, creamy character. We dug a little deeper.
One of the most interesting aspects TASTE’s food director, Abigail Donnelly, saw when she was judging for the 2025 Eat Out Woolworths Restaurant Awards was the creative use of bananas in desserts. She highlights two dishes in particular: the elegant banana soufflé seen at Orangerie restaurant at Le Lude, and a mischievous, inventive banana dessert created at Epice, both in Franschhoek.
But this trend is not limited to local shores – banana has been showing up all over social media in refined banoffee pies, airy mousses, new takes on tiramisu, roasted with miso and served with toasted rice á la Ottolenghi, and as a luscious filling for pastries (roasted banana, blended with cream and white chocolate, as seen her:
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But why have gourmet chefs recently (ahem) gone bananas? “I think it’s just a return to a humble ingredient,” muses Abigail. “It’s very nostalgic, isn’t it?”
A detailed look at Epice’s surprising banana dessert
For Charné Sampson, head chef at Epice restaurant and creator of the lauded banana dessert, there’s certainly a nostalgic element to working with bananas. “I always had them in my lunchbox growing up,” she laughs. Of course, there was also the fact that basically everyone was making (and possibly eating too much) banana bread during Covid, so it could be that they have been still top of mind since then.
What makes Charné’s dessert so fascinating is that it looks like a banana but isn’t actually a banana. “While it appears to be a banana, there’s no overwhelming flavour of banana,” she explains. “The ‘banana’ part you see is a frozen tonka bean parfait. The ‘peel’ is made from set lemon curd, which we mould into the banana shape. The sorbet is banana-and-lime and, finally, we make our own banana cake, which is topped with a spiced mousse.”
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Charné says that it’s quite fun to watch diners’ expressions when they receive this dish. “Our servers often have to explain that while it looks like a banana, it doesn’t taste only of banana – because people will often say that they don’t really like bananas. The menu only lists the main ingredients, not what it looks like – so we get a lot of those ‘wow’ reactions when the plate reaches the table. It’s a very playful dish!”
She describes the inspiration behind it as follows: “It is a bit of a play on a lemon meringue and a banoffee pie – I was obsessed with them at school! But I always found the banoffee too sweet, so I feel that the acidity of the lemon is a nice counter; the two flavours blend well.”
Charné has developed an appreciation for the way that banana can bridge the gap between different ingredients. “It’s a bit like avocado, I would say, even though it’s sweeter. There’s a creaminess that really binds things together.”
It may come as a surprise that banana, with its slightly acidic, grassy character when green, and its warm notes of honey and rum when it’s ripe, pairs exceedingly well with a host of other ingredients. Ready to strike out beyond the standard banana bread or muffins? Try these innovative pairings:
Spice it up
Banana loves warming spices such as nutmeg, cardamom, vanilla and cinnamon, which is why these banana fritters with a spicy mix containing cardamom, nutmeg and cinnamon should immediately go to the top of your baking list.
Banana fritters with apple spice recipe
Spike it up
There’s a reason why banana liqueur is such a mainstay in the cocktail arena – this fruit gets on like a house on fire with sweetish, spiced spirits including rum and bourbon. If you’re keen to try an edible version of this combo, you’re going to love Abi’s banana daiquiri cake.
Moist banana daiquiri cake recipe
Go nuts
With its sweet notes of vanilla and honey, it makes sense that banana really loves nuts – think almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts and especially peanuts – as demonstrated in these moreish peanut butter-and-banana baked doughnuts.
Peanut butter-and-banana baked doughnuts recipe
Chocolate forever
It should be no surprise that banana and chocolate are a winning combination – this recipe for chocolate banana bread with vanilla custard is further evidence. Banana bread, but make it haute – perfect for dessert after Sunday lunch on a winter’s day.
Chocolate banana bread and custard recipe
Tropical flavour
Here’s a meet cute: tropical fruit (banana) meets tropical nut (coconut) and they live deliciously ever after. You could glam up your banana smoothie with some coconut milk or cream, but how about pushing the boat out a little with this banana-and-coconut loaf, with bacon icing? (Bacon and banana, as we know from decadent French toast everywhere, is another heavenly combo.) You could also try this
toffee, banana and coconut open pie.
Toffee, banana and coconut open pie recipe
Fowl weather
And finally, a curveball pairing: banana works surprisingly well with chicken – perhaps the sweetness of the fruit livens up the mildness of the meat? Try it in Abi’s clever chicken curry with sticky bananas. If you’re worried, don’t be, the banana acts in the same way as in a classic bobotie: no clashing flavours, all creamy contrast.
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